# Driver slice- irons draw



## clb

I draw my irons nicely with good distance (5 iron - 200 yds). I can hit my 3 wood about 250 yds with fade but i just can't hit a driver.Big slice almost every time, tried a few things with no success. Any suggestions.Playing off 5 hcp


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## Police

Well have you got the ball teed up high by which i mean more than half the ball over the driver head?


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## clb

No I normally tee it pretty low. ie level with centre of face.


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## Police

Try and tee it up a little higher then backspin combats side spin


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## fitz-uk

cortsongolf said:


> If you are consistently slicing your driver you are squeezing the handle too tight. It is a very common mistake when hitting driver to try and "hit" the ball. I tell my students, "Squeeze too tight - ball goes right!"


Thats an interesting read, I find I hit a fade when my right hand grip is too weak, sometimes to the point where my fingertips are not even in contact with the grip.

I now consciously remind myself about this before takeaway and it seems to have cured the fade, and has brought back the good old draw.


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## fitz-uk

I dont think I was totally clear explaining my grip.

When I say weak, I mean that my bottom hand fingertips were not in contact with the shaft at all.

So now, when I make sure that both hands are securely on the grip, I lose fade.

This is a final issue that I am working on with my pro, the only other thing I have a real issue with is that my right elbow gets caught behind my chest on the down swing.

I find it really hard to correct this as its been a process of 14 years or so of swinging this way.

The way I look at it is that my handicap keeps falling, my game is improving, everyone has a slightly different swing or quirk. If mine is the fact that my right elbow is a bit behind my body, but I can still hit the ball straight and true then I wont worry too much.

Of course this is something that I will continue to work on, regardless.


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## Police

There are many thing you can check and do...
*Grip
*Alignment
*Tee height
*Ball position


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## 65nlovenit

Dont know if this is a cure all for every slice, but it worked for me. My instructor suggested that I was letting my RIGHT arm get above my left arm during my backswing. That was causing me to bring the driver too far past the target line, causing the dreaded "outside to inside" swing which puts side spin on the ball and of course the SLICE. He suggested I try putting a glove under my right arm and prevent it from falling when I was swinging. It worked for me, ball now goes down the middle.


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## Bill Brasky

I too am wondering what can be done to correct a slice and a hook. I'm working on a webpage to help people with their golf swings. It's over at Fix your golf swing!. I don't have much up there right now, which is why I'm here. I need some help figuring out some rough guidelines as to how to correct a draw and fade. Cheers lads!


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## Professor_X

Might I suggest getting your shafts checked for frequency matching.

It sounds like your shafts are not responding the same to your swing, and that causes a lot of errant shots between clubs.


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## 808///M3

Do you:

1)Have an especially upright swing with your irons (club pointing almost straight up at top of swing)? 

2)Is your normal stance and setup more upright than most? Or, 

3)Do you use excessive wrist action at the top of your swing and frequently go past parallel?

If yes, please reply to which one (or more).


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## Davethebulldog

65nlovenit said:


> Dont know if this is a cure all for every slice, but it worked for me. My instructor suggested that I was letting my RIGHT arm get above my left arm during my backswing. That was causing me to bring the driver too far past the target line, causing the dreaded "outside to inside" swing which puts side spin on the ball and of course the SLICE. He suggested I try putting a glove under my right arm and prevent it from falling when I was swinging. It worked for me, ball now goes down the middle.


SOUND ADVICE:headbang:


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## CB350

I have this same problem and it started when I switched to a Callaway X460 driver. Before that, I hit a nice draw with everything. Now, my drives leak to the right a little. It isn't uncontrollable but every so often I get one like I used to with a perfect little draw. That inconsistency is making me crazy.

When I am dead on and playing well, my ball flight is dead straight - no movement either way. Usually, though it is a nice draw. 

The fade is costing me about 10-20 yards on my drives and as a light hitter I need it. My guess is I hit my drives around 250 with the draw and 225-240 with the fade. 

My irons are a club shorter than my friends as well. The way I figure if I think I need a 7-iron, I hit a 6 since most of us are overly optimistic with our club selection. 

Serious spinal cord surgery and other surgeries on the nerves in my right arm/shoulder and hand mean I will NEVER hit the ball as far as I did when the medical problems forced me to stop playing about 7 years ago. 

To be honest, it's kind of liberating. Now, I play my game from the middle of the fairway and let my playing partners try to drive it 300 yards. Normally, I beat them. 

I'm not trying to hijack this thread and will just sit back and listen to the answers given to the thread originator. I thought he might like to know he isn't the only one in this position.


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## Surtees

CB350 said:


> I have this same problem and it started when I switched to a Callaway X460 driver. Before that, I hit a nice draw with everything. Now, my drives leak to the right a little. It isn't uncontrollable but every so often I get one like I used to with a perfect little draw. That inconsistency is making me crazy.
> 
> When I am dead on and playing well, my ball flight is dead straight - no movement either way. Usually, though it is a nice draw.
> 
> The fade is costing me about 10-20 yards on my drives and as a light hitter I need it. My guess is I hit my drives around 250 with the draw and 225-240 with the fade.
> 
> My irons are a club shorter than my friends as well. The way I figure if I think I need a 7-iron, I hit a 6 since most of us are overly optimistic with our club selection.
> 
> Serious spinal cord surgery and other surgeries on the nerves in my right arm/shoulder and hand mean I will NEVER hit the ball as far as I did when the medical problems forced me to stop playing about 7 years ago.
> 
> To be honest, it's kind of liberating. Now, I play my game from the middle of the fairway and let my playing partners try to drive it 300 yards. Normally, I beat them.
> 
> I'm not trying to hijack this thread and will just sit back and listen to the answers given to the thread originator. I thought he might like to know he isn't the only one in this position.


Welcome to the forum Cb350 and dont stress about hijacking the thread you are just having an in put to it which is great. With your new driver did you change shafts? some times that can have an effect due to flex in the shaft.


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## CB350

Surtees said:


> Welcome to the forum Cb350 and dont stress about hijacking the thread you are just having an in put to it which is great. With your new driver did you change shafts? some times that can have an effect due to flex in the shaft.


I went from a standard flex Callaway shaft to another standard flex Callaway shaft. As far as I can tell they have the same playing characteristics.


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## CB350

Spent a little time at the range today and I might simply have been teeing the ball up too high. I must have started to tee it up that way while adjusting to the 460cc driver head. The fade is back, and so is my desperately needed 10 yards. 

Thanks for the help.


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## broken tee

clb said:


> I draw my irons nicely with good distance (5 iron - 200 yds). I can hit my 3 wood about 250 yds with fade but i just can't hit a driver.Big slice almost every time, tried a few things with no success. Any suggestions.Playing off 5 hcp


 Try this article posted by one our Life time members. it is a good read 



The Golf Grip 

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Quote:
Introduction

The way you place your hands on the golf club will have a direct relationship to the flight of your ball. If your grip is too weak, the clubface angle at impact will be off line, which will cause the ball to curve. The bottom edge of the clubface needs to be straight to the target line in order for the ball to fly straight toward the target. A good golf grip would be considered neutral, that is, neither weak nor strong. A neutral grip will allow your hands to react properly to an aggressive swing.

Gripping the club while the club head lies on the ground positions the club in the palm of your hand rather than in your fingers, which will weaken your grip. Be sure to grip the club while standing upright with the club head toward the sky.
If your grips are worn out and slick you will be inclined to squeeze the club too tight, creating a lot of tension in your arms and shoulders, which will cause a short, quick swing. Your grips also need to be the correct size. If the grip is too large, your hands are slow to react to the swing, and if the grip is too small, your hands will overreact.
For best results in improving your golf game, consult your local PGA Pro. He or she can help you identify specific areas for improvement and prescribe the practice techniques that are right for you.


1. First let us clarify which hand is the top hand and which hand is the bottom hand so that we can relate to both right-handed and left-handed golfers. For a right-handed golfer, the left hand is the top hand, and the right hand is the bottom hand. For a left-handed golfer, the right hand is the top hand, and the left hand is the bottom hand. 
2. Start by standing and holding the club in your bottom hand (right hand), where the grip meets the shaft. The shaft should be at an angle where the club head is at your forehead, toward the sky, and the grip is at your waist. The club should be completely vertical. 
3. Touch the club in the fingers of your top hand (left hand)... 
4. and wrap your fingers around the grip. 
5. Next, lay the rest of your top (left) hand on the grip, so that the palm lightly touches the grip. 
6. Slide your bottom (right) hand toward your top hand, and keep the grip in your fingers until both hands touch. 
7. Either interlock your pinky finger and index finger, or have your pinky overlap your index finger. Hold the club as if you were holding an egg -- not too tight. Your hands will naturally squeeze tighter when they need to during the swing. 
8. The finished grip should be essentially with the fingers, rather than with the palms of your hands. Holding the club in your fingers will allow you to keep your arms extended during the swing, which will generate more clubhead speed. 
9. When you make the mistake of holding the club in the palms of your hands, your elbows bend, causing a lack of extension, which decreases clubhead speed.



10. For the advanced golfer, you should check that the "V" of your bottom (right) hand should be pointed between your chin and back shoulder. 
RECOMMENDED PRACTICE: Practice by following the steps listed above at least ten times a day, for one month. After one month, go over the fundamentals once a month. The grip may feel a little awkward at first, but after one month of practice, the grip will feel powerful and comfortable. 

Golf Grip


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## CB350

I played on Thursday at Blue Ash Golf Course in Blue Ash Ohio, it's one of the top 75 public courses in the country according to Golf Digest. In the entire round, I missed exactly one fairway and was hitting the driver dead straight again. My guess is I just needed to hit it more, since this was just my third or fourth round with it. Plus, I teed the ball a little lower. With a Titleist SoLo, I averaged about 240 off the tee and when I switched to a Callaway Warbird ball I got closer to 260. As dumb as it sounds, I would give up hitting it so damn straight to get about 20 more yards. 

Thanks to everyone for the tips.


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